St. Petersburg, built on what was originally swamp and marshland, is all about water: The Gulf of Finland gives it access to the Baltic Sea, the Neva River runs through the city, and a network of canals meander about its neighborhoods. With so much water, it only makes sense to take at least one opportunity to see the city from the river, the sea, or both.
Seeing St. Petersburg by Water
Most tourists to St. Petersburg come via cruise ships on Baltic Sea voyages, and spend two full days in dock. In the winter, of course, cruises don't run, so tourism dwindles to hardy tour groups willing to slog through the snow. The Neva is frozen over, and ships that make it into port do so with the help of ice cutters.
But in summer, seeing the city from the sea or the Neva River is part of the experience of the Port of St. Petersburg. Boats on the Neva will pass the Hermitage Museum along with the Peter and Paul Fortress, built in 1706 to be the heart and earliest defense of Peter the Great's original city.
Hydrofoil stations are found across from the Hermitage, and near the Academy of Sciences and the Senate Building.
Independent travelers can arrange the hydrofoil ride easily enough; it's first come, first-served, and you just buy your ticket at the ticket counter. Cruise ship passengers may also have the opportunity to see St. Petersburg by boat, as many of the trips to Peterhof use the hydrofoil service in at least one direction.
From the Hermitage to Peterhof by Boat
Two of the five most visited tourist attractions in St. Petersburg are linked by water: the Hermitage, on the Neva River, and Peterhof, on the Gulf of Finland. (The three other top attractions are Catherine Palace, the Church on the Spilled Blood, and St. Isaac's Cathedral). Hydrofoils run between the Hermitage and Peterhof, then, offering visitors a different perspective and avoiding some aggressively unpleasant traffic.
The Hermitage is actually a complex of buildings including the Winter Palace, where the riots and demonstrations of the Russian Revolution began. Today, of course, the Hermitage is renowned as one of the world's top art museums, but it was originally a residence for the Czars and Czarinas. Catherine the Great has a particular association with the palace, having expanded its art collections during her rule.
Just across the street from the museum's entrance, you'll find the boat docks on the Neva River. A one-way ticket to Peterhof is 450 Rubles (about $15 U.S.); discounts are available when you buy your return if you've hung on to your original ticket. The 18-mile boat ride takes about 35 - 45 minutes.
You'll see the Peter and Paul Fortress across the river, then, continuing toward the sea, you'll pass St. Isaac's Cathedral, along with a few lesser palaces, churches, and museums. Leaving the river for the Gulf of Finland takes you past the harbor and cruise ship docks. A new harbor complex is being built to house even more cruise ships. It will have seven berths to handle up to 12,000 passengers a day (which means even longer lines at Hermitage.) The 450-hectare complex will include residences, along with recreational space, shopping, and businesses.
The hydrofoil then crosses the Gulf, and arrives at the Grand Palace and Gardens of Peterhof, which were in fact designed to be approached from the sea. After disembarking, visitors are almost immediately impressed by the long straight path rising to the palace, with gilded gravity-fed fountains lined up on either side. The walk to the Grand Palace through the lower park gives a sense of the symmetry of the palace and its grounds, and the European aesthetic that Peter the Great was so intent on importing to Russia. Peter intended his palace to rival Versailles, but many visitors think that it far outdoes its French inspiration.
Note that admission is charged for the lower park. Visitors must tour the palace with a guide; non-Russian speakers must make arrangements in advance. (This will be done for cruise ship visitors on shore excursions; St. Petersburg hotels can help independent travelers.) To return from Peterhof to the Hermitage, simply hop back on the boat. It's by far the most convenient, scenic, and hassle-free way to travel between these two iconic attractions.
Karen Berger - Karen Berger is the author of 15 books. Please click on her name to read her full bio.
