Advanced horseback riders have a frustrating problem on United States and Canadian equestrian vacations: In a litigious society, it's risky for equestrian outfitters to let advanced riders go off at a brisk trot or a satisfying canter. Trail-riding guides worry that riders who declare themselves to be advanced may turn out to be shaky intermediates without much control. Lawsuits lurk as a possible consequence of accidents. As a result, many trail riding operations decide on the side of caution: Trail rides lumber along at a pokey walk.
Horseback riding is different in Costa Rica.
"But how can you sue someone because you fell off a horse?" wondered a Costa Rican trail guide. "That wouldn't happen here."
And, in a nutshell, that difference in attitude is one reason why riding in Costa Rica can be so satisfying for advanced equestrians.
Horseback Riding is a Costa Rican Tradition
Costa Rica is an ecotourism haven filled with low-impact activities and family-run businesses that try to leave as small a carbon footprint as possible. Riding fits the bill, and it is available throughout the country. Indeed, horseback riding is one of Costa Rica's most popular tourist activities, along with zip-lining, birdwatching, and surfing. Trail rides are offered at eco-resorts and at small mom-and-pop stables through out the country.
A look at two outfitters in different parts of the country gives an idea of two different horseback riding expeditions.
Riding in Perez Zeledon
Perez Zeledon is a relatively undeveloped tourist area in the mountains just south of San Jose. The Pan-American Highway straddles the Continental Divide here. Many of the tourist facilities are low key and family owned The whole province has the feel of being off-the-beaten track.
The horseback riding outfitter at Cataratas Namu (Cataratas means "waterfall") is a family- owned facility, with 18 horses. Don't expect magnificent thoroughbred steeds here. But the horses are well-tempered, mostly suitable for beginners, and a few of them will move at a nice canter. Experienced riders can increase their chance of getting a good match by describing their riding ability to the guides. Be honest: Having ridden three times in summer camp 20 years ago doesn't make anyone an expert. But riders with extensive experience should say so.
The ride is fairly challenging, as it winds its way up and down steep hills. (Lean back going down, forward going up, and don't be surprised if the horse decides to make the hill go by a bit faster by taking it at a trot.) The ride pauses midway, and riders dismount to hike to a waterfall.
This is a steep downhill hike, and while the waterfall itself is pretty, not to mention rejuvenating, the hike shouldn't be attempted by riders who are out of shape, because the walk back up is grueling in the hot sun. (Bring mosquito repellent, too). After the hike, riders re-mount their horses and ride back to the main house, where a typical home-cooked Costa-Rican lunch of rice, beans, meat, and salad will be waiting.
Riding at Borinquen Resort, Guanacaste
On the other end of the spectrum is a full-service stable at a five-star eco-resort. Borinquen, in the popular tourist region of Guanacaste, has a full-fledged stable with more than 50 horses. On a recent trip, the request for a "good horse" yielded a horse with smooth gaits, hair-trigger sensitivity to almost motionless hand-signals, and the willingness to move from walk to canter when the rider simply shifted her weight.
Trail rides at Borinquen lead through big open fields, dirt paths ideal for a canter, and into the woods where trails are narrows and steep. Riders can opt for a simple ride, or can ride to a dismount area where they leave the horses and continue on foot to a waterfall (wear a bathing suit under riding clothes; again, bug repellent is a "must-have" item).
An interesting variation at Borinquen is that equestrians can ride to a dismount area, leave their horses to go zip-lining, then ride back to the stables.
Tips for Horseback Riding in Costa Rica
Most Costa Rican equestrian outfitters use typical Costa Rican tack: A western style saddle, without the horn, and a hackamore (a bridle that wraps around the nose, and does not have a metal bit). Riding with a hackamore requires using western-style neck-rein signals.
The rules at Costa Rican stables tend to be much looser than in the U.S..or Canada, where riding helmets, closed shoes, and long pants are often required. Ask about required clothing or footwear; but whatever the rules are, it's safer to wear closed shoes and a helmet, and more comfortable to wear long pants.
With hundreds of riding operations in Costa Rica from which to choose, it's certainly possible to find one that offers a good match between rider, horse, and the pace of the trip.
Karen Berger - Karen Berger is the author of 15 books. Please click on her name to read her full bio.
