It's easy to look out at a vista of sand and sea and think they all look pretty much the same, what with endless blue water, punctuated by white-tipped waves, and the occasional boat crossing the horizon. Ocean vistas are beautiful, but there is a certain sameness about looking out upon miles of empty sea. Thailand's Phang Nga Bay is an exception, with a silhouette that is instantly recognizable. It is one of the only places in the world with limestone cliffs that form islands that jut straight up out of the sea.
Phang Nga Bay can be reached from several marinas from Phuket, Krabi, or Phang Nga. Phuket is one of Thailand's top attractions; from Phuket's Royal Marina, it's about an hour to the Bay via speedboat.
Long-boat trips are also available: These vessels are built in the traditional style, long narrow boats that hug the water. Also available are cruises on larger pleasure-style boats big enough to carry groups of 20, 30 or more, along with enough kayaks or rafts for everyone to explore the caves that were formed by water erosion around and under the bases of the pinnacles. Guides do the actual rowing because of ocean currents that can trap the unwary in the caves with rising tides.
Note that some tour companies do offer kayaking trips where guests do their own paddling. If this is what you want, be sure you are specific when you make your plans. so you get the kind of activity you are interested in. Other available activities folded into Phang Nga's water adventure trips can include birdwatching and even rock-climbing.
Koh Panyi (Sea Gypsy Island) and James Bond Islands
The islands vary in size from little more than specks of rock to giant towers; Some are inhabited by monkeys. Others provide day jobs to vendors. Many of the tour boats make their way to two very different islands: So-called "James Bond" and Sea Gypsy" Islands.
One of the most famous silhouettes belongs to famous James Bond Island (Koh Ping-gan), which rises precipitously from sea to sky. James Bond didn't have the option of buying trinkets from the vendors occupying a thin sliver of beach, but if you visit, you most certainly will. The island is one of a group of islands, many of which have caves that are explored by kayakers.
Sea Gypsy Island (Koh Panyi) is a floating village that seems to have only the most tenacious attachment to dry land. Koh Panyi was originally a traditional fishing village settlement of Thai Muslims, who migrated here from Indonesia. While fishing is still an important part of the local economy, as evidenced by the fish traps laid out by the main pier, tourism is now another linch-pin. Narrow canals and tenuous wooden gangways run among the houses. Bird cages are filled with song birds for sale; for tourists, more practical souvenirs run along the lines of fabrics, wood carvings, and beads. Food and very simple lodgings are available; if you stay over, you'll find that the vibe completely changes as the tour boats leave and the tourist shops all close.
Snorkeling in Phang Nga Bay
You can also arrange to stop at several of the small islands that offer beaches and snorkeling (along with food and, in some cases, lodging). Some of the reefs were seriously damaged during 2004 tsunami, so if you're a serious snorkeler, make that clear when you arrange your boat charter. Snorkeling is available on islands close to Phuket, and many charter boats stop for a bit of beach sitting and swimming. Some of the islands are tourist-trappy and crowded; others have reefs that haven't yet recovered from the tsunami; the few reef fish that hang out there seem to come mainly for the bread offered by guides hoping to drum up some underwater action. If you're hoping to get a taste of Thailand's world famous coral reefs, Phi Phi Islands, about 50 kilometers away by boat, is the best choice, although the boat trip is long.
Whichever option you choose, bring a camera, a bathing suit, sunscreen, water, and sea motion-sickness pills. With your comfort assured, you'll have plenty of time to gape at and enjoy what is truly one of the world's unique seascapes.
Karen Berger - Karen Berger is the author of 15 books. Please click on her name to read her full bio.
